I don’t like the usually burnt coffee. I whine a bit about increasing prices. Sometimes I find myself the recipient of sporadically inept hands in the kitchen.

BUT.

Flying Star, like Ari LeVaux said in his recent Alibi article, is the “friend you hang out with all the time, even though you sometimes complain about him”. And like an old friend, a heck of a lot of people would miss Flying Star if it were missing from the local dining landscape.

NINE, count ‘em, nine locations. Gorgeous interior design. Local roasting that has upsized several times. Over nearly 25 years, the operation has both grown and refined itself, finding solid ground in serving what most people want, most of the time, at prices that are perfectly fine (mostly).

Remember that organic costs more. Imported butter for great pastries costs more. Local chicken costs more. And in the middle of a recession, everybody hurts. Raw ingredient costs are up at least 25% for restaurants in the last 4 years, yet menu costs are up under 10%. That means that even though it sucks to pay more, the restaurants are sucking it up, too, and that includes Flying Star.

This is roundabout way of me congratulating Ari for his article. He appreciates what Flying Star does, even with a few grumbles thrown in.

Here’s what Creative Albuquerque says about themselves, “Creative Albuquerque’s mission is to grow the creative economy to ensure a more dynamic and prosperous city.”

Here’s what I say about bRgR:  ”. . . you could imagine yourself at an eatery in Denver until you spot the Chile Bliss burger ($6), accented with smoked cheddar for extra punch . . .”

Pizza 9 will be moving in to the former frozen-dessert spot behind the Century Downtown theater.  They say they’re Chicago, I say not-so.  Good pizza, but it’s thick crust, plain and simple.

McGrath’s in the Hyatt.  Ever eat there?  Yeah, maybe once and you didn’t choose to.  What did you eat?  Who knows.  It was fine.  Finally the uninteresting is shoved out and a new contender steps in.  It’s called Forque and whether or not they intend to compete with Lucia, it is always a good sign when new places open, especially in a down economy.  Looks like steak . . . and stuff.  Duck, ok, and some South American influences like chimichurri (one of the greatest condiments ever).

More hotel renovations:  the downtown Hilton, home of the Rancher’s Club, is now rebranded as Crowne Plaza.  Rancher’s Club stays, but the casual restaurant will be reopened as “innovative New Mexican” and called Stonestreet Restaurant.

East Mountain diners have one less spot to have drinks with dinner – the Backside Alehouse has been fighting for a liquor license but recently lost their legal fight, and as a result they will close down completely.  Big bummer for the 10,000+ residents out there.

Hot dogs and burgers are recession food, so they say. Personally it seems more reasonable to me that true recession food would be beans and rice, or stew, or casseroles, or beans and beans and beans. Or maybe that’s depression food. Anyway . . .

If you have been missing Bob’s Fish n’ Chips near downtown, you still won’t be able to get the old school divey experience at 700 Central SE because it is now owned by a couple of chefs with experience at high-end joints in Santa Fe. What are they doing to the old place? Making burgers out of grass-fed beef, that’s what. Owner Chris Medina is calling the place “Holy Cow” and hopes to compete with the likes of BrGr, Standard Diner, and a host of others.

This is obviously a trend, whether or not it has anything to do with the recession. I applaud the increasing use of grass-fed beef, especially for “fatty” applications like burgers where you want the moisture but not all the icky hormonal junk that usually tags along in factory-farmed cattle meat. True grass-fed AND grass-finished beef’s fat is as good for you as salmon fat. Neato, eh? While Holy Cow’s grass-fed is probably grain-finished, it’s still a good start.

Open daily lunch through late with weekend breakfasts (maybe); 505-242-2991

One of my other favorite lunches in the UNM/EDo/Downtown area was Souper Salad near University on Central.  The same folks worked there for years, only a few managers came and went, and generally it was a reliable place to chow down on the healthier components of my daily consumption.

Alas, a customer recently reported to the health department that they found a blade in one of the food bins – likely from a peeler, one of those little guys – and it took about 24 hours for the place to be practically boarded up.  THAT sounds fishy to me.  Yes that is no small offense, BUT in the grand scheme of things a single blade in the shredded carrots is frankly far less of the public health risk than other easily overlooked things like employees not washing their hands or not keeping food at the correct temperatures.  At least a blade is right out there saying, “hello!  I don’t belong here!”.  Bacteria don’t do that.  But in this case that blade allowed the inspectors to find those other violations I mentioned above – so perhaps the blade did some good.

Anyway, I still kind of wonder if anything else was going on – were there financial troubles?  Managerial woes?  It seems that a “for rent” sign up the next day is a bit extreme.  Anyone know?

Cafe Lush is the creation of owners Tom Docherty and his wife, Sandy Gregory. They’ve spent long hours in local restaurant kitchens and behind the counter at bars in town, but now they’d like to keep in the same industry without having to retire completely.

The menu is, in a nutshell, fresh. Breakfast pizzas and french toast “bread pudding” that sound promising start the day, and lunch moves into sandwiches, savory salads, and more pizzas than you can shake a BBQ Chicken at.

Looking forward to see how Cafe Lush serves the neighborhood!

It’s the summer and we’re thinking of light, healthy foods.  To many, that means seafood.  But we can’t all have our swordfish and tuna – yes, tuna – and our yellowtail and still leave some for the next generation, or even the next YEAR.

Sustainable Seafood is all about fishing in a way that will keep populations healthy and plentiful for maintenance of both the ecosystem AND your fishy taste buds.  At the Biopark’s Aquarium, at 6pm tonight (June 9th), is a bargain of an event – the Rock the Boat Sustainable Seafood Festival.  $30 gets you a ticket to stroll around the lush grounds, sampling seafood from restaurants who have taken measures to increase or wholeheartedly embrace their sustainability when it comes to fish.

PLUS, you can sample a wicked cool fish – the lionfish.  When you think “invasive species”, you think zebra mussel and kudzu and bark beetle.  But if the invasive species is a fish, why not eat it?  I agree!

Don’t forget the always-handy Monterey Bay Seafood Watch guide – you can download and print it for your wallet, and it will tell you which fish are good choices in the Southwest, or all over the country.  Hint:  don’t eat tuna.  Seriously.

http://breakthechain.info/2011/05/21/andrea-lin/

Restaurants I wanted to mention but didn’t get around to:

Fat Boy Cafe for great coffee

Cedar Point Grille for a recent revamp that includes great breakfasts and wonderful biscuits and gravy

Slate Street Cafe for just being pretty gosh darned good for a long time

Winning Coffee for being there for all of us coffee hounds long before Charlie Sheen made it trendy

Annapurna Chai Shoppe and Restaurant for Cardamom Pancakes – seriously delicious

Thank you for your support of local restaurants, and tune in this Saturday as the guest will be Cheryl Jamison, a prolific cook and author here in our fabulously spicy state.

Los Cuates, one of the stalwarts in our NM food scene, is expanding to a new location in Santa Fe – good for them!  They’ll be inside the newly renovated Santa Fe Lodge hotel with a grand opening scheduled for early May.  Another local opening will be at the Sunport, taking over the Garduno’s spot after winning the bid over El Pinto.  The “Twins” will soon be quadruplets!

Next month was the deadline for a bunch of local restaurants to install really crazy expensive new sprinkler systems, and no one is happy about it – not the restauranteurs nor the city officials who will have to enforce the law, so they granted another 90 day extension to the businesses.  I’ll be on the look out for closings over the summer due to small establishments not being able to pony up the $100K to update their systems.  Ouch.

Really good restaurants often do well, that’s what I love to see.  Here’s my quote of the week:  “Recession? What recession?” – Christophe Descarpentries, one of the owners of P’tit Louis Bistro, with one downtown location and another opening up in Nob Hill.  Well deserved, guys!

One of the heroes of my early days as a foodie here in Albuquerque is leaving town for family reasons – Chef Sam Etheridge, with a storied history in landmarks like Portabello, Bien Shur, Kanome, Ambrozia, and Nob Hill Bar & Grill had a decade to make you all happy with duck tacos, lobster corndogs, amazing Sunday brunches and the weirdest food innovations this town has seen in years, many of which are now standard menu items at your favorite restaurants.  He spent the last several years as a writer for the Local IQ, tending to his cooking and his family.  I wish him the best.

Yeah, yeah, I know you can already BUY chocolate and coffee in Albuquerque, but this is the first festival we’ve had to celebrate some of the two more important C words in all of English.  Heck, in all of my DIET, too.

It is called the Southwest Chocolate and Coffee FEST, and is going on at the Convention Center this weekend, April 16th and April 17th.  I am so crazy bummed because I will be out of town, and missing a potentially cool event.  It’s a who’s who of local chocolate and confectionary wizards, personal favorites to new folks I’d love to try out (later), including Chocolate Cartel, Theobroma, ChocolateSmith, Candy Lady, yum!

Here’s what else I am missing, just so you don’t have to:

ABQ Beer Week (ok, it ends on Saturday, so there’s still time!)

Jubilation’s Monthly Wine Tasting – Saturday at 2pm:  these are ALWAYS fun and even if I don’t plan to buy wine I usually do, which I suppose is the point.

APRIL is the month to eat cookies and save critters – Flying Star’s annual Animal Humane Center promotion gives a BUCK for every blob of sugary wafer (i.e., cookie) that you buy with the AHNM logo on it.  Mmm, sugar.