In the space of what seemed like mere minutes, I had a lovely conversation with Chef David Tanis of Berkeley’s Chez Panisse. He is not just “of” Chez Panisse, he IS Chez Panisse, crafting the daily menu at one of the most famous restaurants on earth for the past 20 years.
He will be at Bookworks on Monday signing his superlative new book and then, Pat Keene and her staff at the Artichoke Cafe will be preparing a dinner based on David’s recipes for a captive audience. If tickets are still available, snatch them up ASAP – a single meal’s ticket includes a book, so you’ll be all set to create your own dishes after the evening has concluded.
Because my interviewing style is not quite as wondrous as, say, Jon Stewart, I captured a lot of tidbits from the conversation that I hope will give you a great idea of the kind of man and chef that David is. Enjoy!
I just “ogle the vegetables” – how David loves to choose his produce for the day when visiting the farmer’s market
“I like to go from the beginning to the end” creating menus that flow from the very first bite all the way through to a simple and sweet dessert.
All I need is a “wooden spoon, cast iron pan, knife” – David’s only cooking essentials, if he were reduced to a desert island style restriction. This speaks so well to how he cooks at home – it must be meditative and fresh and something you can do with unfussy attention, perhaps while sipping wine or chatting with guests.
When you cook, “it connects you with your friends, it connects you with your community”. Essentially, by injecting your own labor into raw ingredients you are making a transformation that benefits your fellow diners as well as supporting whatever fresh vendors have supplied those ingredients – the more local, the better.
Seasonality RIGHT NOW, “here in california we are getting rain, end of season tomatoes, eggplants, great squashes and wild mushrooms”. Visit Chez Panisse this week and these are the ingredients on which the kitchen will work their magic.
What was the last meal you cooked? “A little pot of beans – on toast, just like in the book; fresh pinto beans make the best meal of all.” I’ll concur, the book’s photo of beans on toast is one of the most drool-inducing simple concepts I’ve seen in months.
Enjoy, go see David, and BUY HIS BOOK. Your cooking world will be enhanced in ways that will transcend the cover price.