I have a long history of defending Flying Star. I respect what Jean and Mark Bernstein do with local ingredients. I appreciate their ridiculously long hours, day after day (6 a.m. – 11 p.m. in most locations, most days). I am thankful for magazines I can browse while drinking refills of coffee.

I don’t like the usually burnt coffee. I whine a bit about increasing prices. Sometimes I find myself the recipient of sporadically inept hands in the kitchen.

BUT.

Flying Star, like Ari LeVaux said in his recent Alibi article, is the “friend you hang out with all the time, even though you sometimes complain about him”. And like an old friend, a heck of a lot of people would miss Flying Star if it were missing from the local dining landscape.

NINE, count ‘em, nine locations. Gorgeous interior design. Local roasting that has upsized several times. Over nearly 25 years, the operation has both grown and refined itself, finding solid ground in serving what most people want, most of the time, at prices that are perfectly fine (mostly).

Remember that organic costs more. Imported butter for great pastries costs more. Local chicken costs more. And in the middle of a recession, everybody hurts. Raw ingredient costs are up at least 25% for restaurants in the last 4 years, yet menu costs are up under 10%. That means that even though it sucks to pay more, the restaurants are sucking it up, too, and that includes Flying Star.

This is roundabout way of me congratulating Ari for his article. He appreciates what Flying Star does, even with a few grumbles thrown in.

And, STAY to the management and kitchen staff as they transition over to the Italian theme of Gregorio’s under the helm of Matt DiGregory.  It’s the same people as Rodeo Grill, which are the same people as The Range, and the same as Standard Diner.

Here’s my issue:  They’ve been open ONE WEEK.  Urbanspoon already has 4 reviews both great and bad.  Give it some time, folks . . . even experienced restauranteurs need time to get things flowing.  Go visit, take notes, wait, go back, think about it…. and then post a review.

Thanks.

P.S. I’m not saying that Gregorio’s is getting any different treatment than most new and hyped joints in town, but this one happened so quickly that I wanted to object in public to the general practice of lobbing critique at brand new restaurants.

Cupcakes are soooo 2004.  What is even more quaint than the cute but lowly little cupcake?  Yes, indeed, we have a new pastry/baking/sweets spot in town, this one focusing on that most retro of baked goods: the Bundt Cake.  It’s called Nothing Bundt Cakes and is a franchise based out of Las Vegas.

Think you know the history of the Bundt Cake?  Yeah, me neither.  But that’s O.K. – all you need to know is that Nothing Bundt Cakes is located at Wyoming and Academy – near the 5 Star Burgers and Whole Foods, etc.

And, don’t forget the FREE – I will be giving away a YEAR of “Bundtlets”, individual cutesy cakes, one per month.  Just comment below and you’re in the running – I’ll give away the certificate this weekend!  If I get a crapload of comments I’ll decide who deserves the cake the most.  If I get just one, well…. you get it!

I’m not going to attach the press release because it’s kind of PR overload, but here are the details you need:

Today, 8/17:  ribbon-cutting ceremony

Friday 8/19: Animal Humane NM benefit – go on this day and help out critters to the tune of 20% of anything you buy!

Saturday 8/20: First 50 customers get free cake, AND more benefits for Animal Humane.  Yay!

5901-X Wyoming Blvd NE
505.924.4444
albuquerque@nothingbundtcakes.com
Monday-Friday: 9AM-6PM; Saturday: 10AM-6PM

Oops.  It helps if you actually cook the food in your buffet, and keep it nice and hot so that little critters don’t start growing in it.  But that wasn’t quite happening for the AA Buffet on Juan Tabo, who got a rare RED sticker on their health inspection after an eater complained of cold food.

“Inspectors said they found raw shrimp on the buffet, chicken not kept hot enough, improper sanitizing and soiled and moist cloths on the kitchen counters.”

I’m a huge fan of raw food – WHEN it is from a clean source and meant to be served raw.  That’s a big difference from a place like a buffet where dozens or  hundreds of people are looking for inexpensive belly-filling sustenance.

AA Buffet also serves sushi and oysters on the half shell – something I’d be pretty wary of, not only because their sanitation is in doubt, but because the source of the (non-oyster) fish is probably factory farms and East Asian shrimperies.  It’s hard to avoid, true, but when I *know* I can avoid meat of questionable origin, I still will do my best.

On my way to the Rodeo Grill and hoping I keep my mitts out of the CRACK CHIPS.

Oh, the shame . . . it’s almost as bad/tempting/delicious as the infamous recipe posted to eGullet years ago under the subject of “Guilty Pleasures”. The awesome-sounding literal mashup included tortilla chips, several taco salad ingredients, and a larger-than-necessary spoon to eat it all with the windowshades drawn. The author called it “Trailer Trash Crap“. Tee hee.

Some day I might attempt such a feat, but for now I’ll content myself with the knowledge that I have polished off the Silverton equivalent: the Mexican Funnel Cake.