In the space of what seemed like mere minutes, I had a lovely conversation with Chef David Tanis of Berkeley’s Chez Panisse. He is not just “of” Chez Panisse, he IS Chez Panisse, crafting the daily menu at one of the most famous restaurants on earth for the past 20 years.

He will be at Bookworks on Monday signing his superlative new book and then, Pat Keene and her staff at the Artichoke Cafe will be preparing a dinner based on David’s recipes for a captive audience. If tickets are still available, snatch them up ASAP – a single meal’s ticket includes a book, so you’ll be all set to create your own dishes after the evening has concluded.

Because my interviewing style is not quite as wondrous as, say, Jon Stewart, I captured a lot of tidbits from the conversation that I hope will give you a great idea of the kind of man and chef that David is. Enjoy!

I just “ogle the vegetables” – how David loves to choose his produce for the day when visiting the farmer’s market

“I like to go from the beginning to the end” creating menus that flow from the very first bite all the way through to a simple and sweet dessert.

All I need is a “wooden spoon, cast iron pan, knife” – David’s only cooking essentials, if he were reduced to a desert island style restriction. This speaks so well to how he cooks at home – it must be meditative and fresh and something you can do with unfussy attention, perhaps while sipping wine or chatting with guests.

When you cook, “it connects you with your friends, it connects you with your community”. Essentially, by injecting your own labor into raw ingredients you are making a transformation that benefits your fellow diners as well as supporting whatever fresh vendors have supplied those ingredients – the more local, the better.

Seasonality RIGHT NOW, “here in california we are getting rain, end of season tomatoes, eggplants, great squashes and wild mushrooms”. Visit Chez Panisse this week and these are the ingredients on which the kitchen will work their magic.
What was the last meal you cooked? “A little pot of beans – on toast, just like in the book; fresh pinto beans make the best meal of all.” I’ll concur, the book’s photo of beans on toast is one of the most drool-inducing simple concepts I’ve seen in months.

Enjoy, go see David, and BUY HIS BOOK. Your cooking world will be enhanced in ways that will transcend the cover price.

It is so close to town – that little diversion over to Tijeras, then north on 14 for 3 short miles until you come to a gorgeous new building housing the Triangle Grocery.

Wine and Cheese in Cedar Crest — Taste wines and cheeses from around the world TONIGHT at the Triangle Grocery in Cedar Crest (12165 N. Hwy. 14, 281-3030). 5-7 pm.

Right next door is Greenside Cafe, the perfect place for dinner after your sips and nibbles. Jay Wulf, formerly of The Range and Standard Diner, will treat you to well-crafted entrees in the cool light of evening.

If you are loving the cooler fall weather and just can’t get enough, take a quick drive to the East Mountains and you’ll not only find tall trees but a culinary scene that deserves more attention.

A previously loved-and-lost cafe is re-opening in a new space: Chilepeno’s opened its doors in the space previously occupied by Ming’s Chinese (which was a second location of Ming Dynasty on Eubank). I’ve raved about Chilepeno’s before as a staple of good hearty chile and egg dishes – I hope they’ve brought back the same cooks (Lawrence, you there?).

It seems like months, but THREE YEARS have gone by since Greenside Cafe started serving excellent simple food, providing a necessary alternative to the pizza/chinese/BBQ stalwarts of the North 14 corridor. You could say the food is “generically” American, but in reality it is just good. Hanger steaks, chicken piccatta, meatloaf, and some awesome eggs benedict are all on the menu augmented by homemade ice cream and wine & beer. I think their anniversary bash already happened, but swing by and thank Jay Wulf for his commitment to the area.

Finally EVERY SINGLE Thursday the Triangle Grocery holds a wine and cheese tasting to allow sampling of one of the best little liquor departments around. (take that, Edgewood Smith’s!)

East Mountains should be called the Eat Mountains!

Community tables at JJ101 is one of those local things that I “want” to do more. I “try” to make time to go. And yet it rarely happens.

This coming month the quotes are coming off and I’m going, dammit. Why? Single ingredient themes.

Here’s a few choice items from the list:
coconut
stone fruits
banana
tomatoes
soy
peanuts
coffee

She kind of had me at tomatoes, but banana sounds pretty interesting, too. Will there be plantains? Some old-school banana pudding with vanilla wafers? I could totally see them do that with the comfort food tendencies that are borne from their midwestern background.

After all, this is the restaurant that brought us Grandma’s peach pie, fantastic fried chicken, bacon fat popcorn, and Nellie’s own amazing coconut pie. Whoa. I just realized I might need to go to the coconut night as well. I’m having a thing for macaroons lately since being thrust back into the world of Orangette with the blog and reading her book and all.

As per the usual setup, it is $35/person with a table wine included, but tax+tip not included.

I heard about this almost too late, but you can still get your nominations in.

Pick your favorite local restaurant that needs a little love.  Maybe they have the best breakfasts ever but that fading decor could use some sprucing up, or maybe its the kitchen items that need some expansion.  Doesn’t matter – just show some love and send the city’s “rock this restaurant” project to your favorite haunt for some TLC.

Nominate soon – they were supposed to stop accepting on 8/31, but have extended that temporarily!

http://rockthisrestaurant.com