Nothing in the restaurant biz is static. Places close, places open, people quit, people walk in and save the day. It happens so often that it seems almost like a big family that just rotates Thanksgiving dinner each year. Imagine you work at a copy store, and you knew a lot of other people who worked at other copy stores all over town – doesn’t matter which company. And every year or so, half the copy store employees are working at some other store than where they previously did, almost randomly. That’s kind of how chefs move around – it’s strange to everyone on the outside, and just the pecking order or the way to get by if you’re one of them.
That’s all a long way of saying that less than six months after Casa Vieja closed, the main gastronomic mind behind the kitchen is now in a new kitchen at Desert Fish just east of Nob Hill. Given that Desert Fish has impressed me mightily, I have to check out what Josh Gerwin is going to do with the place. And of course, I’ll have to find out where or where the previous chef/owner went. I can barely keep tabs on these folks!
The wine and cocktail mistress from Casa Vieja is also branching out – rumor has it that the talented Kate will be emerging into a new venture. When I know, you will, too!
Holy wow has a ton of stuff being going on in the Albuquerque restaurant scene. I try to keep my ears to the ground and hopefully get some tips from friends, but often I’ll just spot something and re-post here – easy for you to find later!
First and most importantly, let’s talk coffee. Cafe Giuseppe has changed ownership. I’m frankly terrified of any reduction of espresso quality, so I’ll have to go check ASAP to make sure the same folks are employed and/or any new baristas know what they’re doing with those gorgeous old style Italian machines.
Four Aces lost their King. Saul Paniagua has left Four Aces Grill on 4th Street. This is breaking and I haven’t heard yet what happened and where he might be headed next. His menu was fantastic. Bravo, Saul, and hope to see you soon.
New management means kitchen changes at St. Clair Winery & Bistro – Chef W. James LaDuke is no longer in St. Clair’s kitchen after some menu rejiggering and new cuisine philosophy. He cooked great food for many years there, so I hope to see him in a new post as soon as possible. (Any fine dining spots looking for a chef? Get in touch with me or James!)
And, last AND certainly least: Chipotle is on the way. Did you hear a big resounding “MEH” from me? Yes, yes you did. They’re even hiring management, so anyone that wants an hourly “seasonal” job in one of the toughest industries in this country, go for it.
I keep tabs on news that filters up about new spots, chef departures, developing concepts and try to bring them in one non-paywalled placed, because I love you. Actually, I really like gossip, so let’s see what I have this week:
McGrath’s in the Hyatt. Ever eat there? Yeah, maybe once and you didn’t choose to. What did you eat? Who knows. It was fine. Finally the uninteresting is shoved out and a new contender steps in. It’s called Forque and whether or not they intend to compete with Lucia, it is always a good sign when new places open, especially in a down economy. Looks like steak . . . and stuff. Duck, ok, and some South American influences like chimichurri (one of the greatest condiments ever).
More hotel renovations: the downtown Hilton, home of the Rancher’s Club, is now rebranded as Crowne Plaza. Rancher’s Club stays, but the casual restaurant will be reopened as “innovative New Mexican” and called Stonestreet Restaurant.
East Mountain diners have one less spot to have drinks with dinner – the Backside Alehouse has been fighting for a liquor license but recently lost their legal fight, and as a result they will close down completely. Big bummer for the 10,000+ residents out there.
Garduno's Chile Rojo - delicious red chile and steak
Garduno’s Mexican Restaurant group, of which just 2 are still in operation, was BOUGHT for $1.7 million dollars, quite a sum if you consider the troubles they’ve been through the last few years.
Many locals, however, seem to just not care about all that internal stuff – just bring the food back! I kind of agree – the guacamole was quite tasty, the bowl of red (Chile Rojo) with beef tips is one of my favorite comfort meals of all time.
So, we’ll see what will happen under new control and new ownership – they say they’d like to continue sourcing locally, and that would be a great thing for Albuquerque and the loyal fans who no doubt will be back to order up some of that tableside guac. (Though you can now get it made tableside at the FORMER Garduno’s on 4th, which is now El Brunos of Cuba – and it’s good there, too.)
McDonald’s – yes, that McDonald’s, whom I love for their Egg McMuffins – is certifying its EUROPEAN locations as purveyors of M.S.C. eco-labeled sustainable fish. That’s 100 Million fish sandwiches per year. This is amazing and hopefully a sign of the times. We understand that we love fish, but there ain’t as many to go around as there used to be, not with the availability of sushi at your local grocery store and such. (Ick, but that’s my opinion) Now, this is just Europe for the moment, where standards for ‘clean’ food are already higher than in the U.S., but still a sign of progress.
Further, in the same NYTimes story, Wal-Mart has announced they will require all suppliers of seafood products to both Wal-Mart and Sam’s Club to be either M.S.C certified OR “an equivalent certification”. I’m excited about this, and withholding any concern so far, like “will the equivalent certification be good?”. It is still a step in the right direction, especially as Wal-Mart has a lot to make up for with it’s participation in the utter destruction of the Chilean coastline for their unending demand for cheap salmon.
Movers and Shakers: Chefs and Cocktails do the hokey pokey
Nothing in the restaurant biz is static. Places close, places open, people quit, people walk in and save the day. It happens so often that it seems almost like a big family that just rotates Thanksgiving dinner each year. Imagine you work at a copy store, and you knew a lot of other people who worked at other copy stores all over town – doesn’t matter which company. And every year or so, half the copy store employees are working at some other store than where they previously did, almost randomly. That’s kind of how chefs move around – it’s strange to everyone on the outside, and just the pecking order or the way to get by if you’re one of them.
